2026 - 2027 Workshops

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Supply List

• Oxbow Tote Pattern by Noodlehead

• Exterior Fabric: ½ yd or 1 yd

• Lining fabric: 1.5 yd or 2 yds (this is more than pattern calls for)

• Accent fabric (base and exterior pockets): 1/3 yd or 3/8 yd

• Woven fusible interfacing or SF 101: 2-3 yards or more

• Foam Stabilizer or fusible fleece: ½ yd or 1 yd

• Heavy stabilizer such as Decovil heavy, Peltex or Fast 2 Fuse 7” x 19”

• #4.5 or #5 zipper by the yard – one package, or (1) at 24” and (1) at 14” (NOT small zippers)

• Webbing: 4 yards of 1.25” or 1.5” width (more if you want shoulder handles)

• Hardware: (2) swivel clips, (1) slider, and (2) D-rings or triangle rings for the size of webbing selected. Snap for exterior pocket is optional.

• Rivets are optional! If you want to use them in your bag you can purchase them from me. Let me before class once you know the color of hardware you are using.

• Sewing machine in working order- bring the big machine if you have choices.

• General sewing supplies: scissors, stiletto, rotary cutter, ruler, marking pencils, etc.

• Sewing clips – not optional

• 1/8” double stick (DST) or basting tape from By Annie, Tandy Leather, or similar. If you have wider DST, bring that too.

• Pinking shears, optional

• Polyester thread

• Microtex, Denim or jeans needles size 90 and/or 100

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1. I usually fuse woven fusible interfacing to the back of any quilting cotton, linen, canvas or home dec fabric before I use it in a bag. That goes for exterior and lining. I sometimes even do this for vinyl and cork - it can also stretch - but test it first with a medium iron. (I do not add interfacing to waterproof canvas if I use that for lining or to heavier waxed canvas for the exterior.) You know your machine best. If it will not handle heavier layers, take that into consideration or call me and we can discuss it. 

2. When fusing SF101 or Shape Flex or other woven fusible to the back of fabric, I try to estimate the size of the area I will need, fuse a large section and cut out my pieces after fusing. Then I am only measuring and cutting pieces once. 

3. I always put interfacing on the exterior and interior of any pocket pieces, especially on lining pockets, regardless of what the pattern says. I don't want pockets to crush as I try to put something into them. I want them to stand up straight!!!! Again, consider your machine. 

4. Interior pockets do not need to be of the same fabric as the main lining pieces. In fact, it is sometimes nice if they contrast. You can also trim the top edge with cotton quilt binding or a piece of leather or vinyl. 

5. Please plan to cut out all your pieces for the exterior, lining, and pockets before we meet. I think you will want to get started sewing on Tuesday. We will start with the exterior pieces, if you run short of time. 

6. I like to add a second slip pocket to the exterior back of the bag. More pockets are better, right? You can also add a luggage sleeve if desired (or both.) Measure the handle of your suitcase before class for best fit. 

7. If you are using a fabric with a pattern that might benefit from fussy cutting, I am happy to help with that before the day of class. 

8. The handles for this bag were a bit short in my opinion. Do not cut them to length until class. You can try on my samples and decide. 

9. I have also added a zippered pocket to the interior of this bag and have attached those instructions. We will turn the bag through this pocket, and no turning seam will be visible at the bottom of the bag. It is a great technique that I now use in most turned bags. This is optional, and can be skipped if finishing in class is more important to you. 

It will be helpful if you can have all your pieces cut out before the sewing day. If that isn’t 
possible, it will be fine, but you might not complete the bag that day. 
If you have any questions about your supplies or fabric choices, please feel free to contact me before class.

Updated supply lists will be sent to participants prior to the workshop.

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